“Buenos Aires in Focus”
We take a detailed look at Buenos Aires, aptly known as the ‘Paris of the South’, thanks to the ample, recognisable 18th century French inspired architecture. Yet plenty of diverse architectural examples can be seen, including the significant National Library in Recoletta and the National Bank of London which are considered master piece examples of brutalist design.
La Boca
A vibrant working class neighbourhood. Famed for it’s soccer team and Caminito Street with houses painted in bright colors by local artist Benito Quinquela Martin.
Palermo Soho
A colourful, hip hangout district with plenty of great cafes, restaurants and bars and where the trendy young designers have set up shop in droves.
Recoleta
Home to aristocrats and distinguished families. It’s an artistic and cultural hub with the National Museum of Fine Arts, the National Library, and Del Pilar Church among its attractions. The most exclusive fashion maisons and haute couture houses are lined along elegant Alvear Avenue, as are upscale B.A. designers alongside jewellery and antique stores. Home also to the legendary La Recoleta cemetery, which contains the graves of notable people including Eva Peron, Presidents, Nobel Prize winners and the grand-daughter of Napoleon…honestly, not as morbid as you may think!
Puerto Madero
This once abandoned neighbourhood was reinvented about a decade ago and has been completely transformed into a modern and stylish community, now with some of the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aires combining commercial buildings, residences, luxury hotels, restaurants and theatres along the river.
Floralis Genérica
This beautiful steel sculpture, located in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas was donated by the architect Eduardo Catalano in 2002. It opens it’s six enormous petals at dawn and closes them at nightfall.
Temaiken
A wildlife park located on the outskirts of Buenos Aires (about 40mins by car). It is home to over 200 animal species in the zoo and also incorporates botanic gardens, and an amazing aquarium and 360º cinema and natural history museum.
Parque y Tren de la Costa
This amusement park has plenty of indoor/outdoor attractions for the kids, including the thrills of roller coasters, merry-go-rounds, liquid coasters and much more, all set amongst beautiful scenery.
Our ‘where to stay’ wish list
Faena Hotel Buenos Aires
The 5-star brain child of Alan Faena who I was fortunate to meet a few years back (pre development of the Faena District in South Beach, Miami). This Philippe Starck imagined riverfront hotel is an eye-popping mix of drama, coupled with luxe crimson fabrics, and sparkling chandeliers. Offering equally astonishing service, guests are greeted through the Cathedral entrance way with their own ‘experience manager’. Dining offerings include El Mercado featuring Argentinean cuisine (wood fire Asados!!) or the unique fine dining fantasy at Bistro Sur. Pool Party…the place to be seen. Library Lounge great to enjoy a morning coffee, or cocktails and live entertainment. I’ve since stayed at sister hotel, Faena Miami Beach in South Beach, which was a beyond exceptional experience…clearly I’m a huge fan! Note: The hotel also boasts a private wine cellar, and a must do, is a visit to the Faena Art Center for contemporary art and culture.
Home Hotel
Located in Palermo Hollywood, this boutique hotel is close to all the offerings of this vibrant locale, yet this has a more residential and almost ‘homely’ feel (of course it does!). The larger rooms and suites are really spacious and brilliant value for money. The hotel offers breakfast only as there’s ample fabulous eating options in the area, but the hotel has a great bar and garden/pool area with the bar being selected in the ‘Top Ten Hotel Bars in the World’ by the International Bartenders Association in 2014. It certainly gets my vote!
Alvear Palace
This landmark hotel located in the heart of fashionable Recoleta, exudes old world charm and elegance with soaring ceilings and crystal chandeliers. With 197 rooms and suites designed in Louis XIV and Louis XVI style with plush furnishings (over half the accommodation offering is suites). La Bourgogne offers arguably the best French cuisine in Buenos Aires.
Four Seasons
In the heart of Recoleta, this luxury hotel is spread over two very polar opposite accommodation offerings. The 12-storey tower wing with a modern aesthetic and the bell époque mansion which embodies French opulence with 7 different types of suites (celebrities and entourage will often book out the entire mansion). Connecting each building are landscaped gardens and pool area. Expect superb 5-star service and facilities, but a very exclusive experience offered to guests is the opportunity for you to create your own signature scent with legendary Argentinean perfumer Julian Bedel.
Casasur Palermo
This Palermo Hollywood hotel opened 2015, offering 61 spacious rooms and suites in a contemporary design. There’s a great roof terrace and bar complete with barbecue, making for fun evenings and 6to Brasserie offers great dining options. The hotel of course offers a calming spa, pool and gym and is conveniently close to ample neighbourhood nightlife of restaurants and bars and great shopping. Excellent value 4-star hotel!
Algodon Mansion
They had me at “wine-themed wet bars in the suites”!! This 10 suite boutique hotel in the chic neighbourhood of Recoleta offers state-of-the-art technology, 24-hour butler and concierge service, fine dining restaurant (as you would expect, being a member of Relais & Chateaux), wine cellar, library and lounge bar, spa and rooftop pool…with of course an obligatory roof top bar!
Other notable hotel mentions include:
- Hotel Madero, modern boutique – Puerto Madero
- Mio Buenos Aires, a great 4-star boutique – Recoleta
- Hotel Boca Juniors, for sports fans – La Boca
The Tango of course..is a fusion of immigrant music and dance techniques (African, Cuban and European). What was derived in the somewhat sleazy fixtures of urban nightlife in the late 1800s is now synonymous with sophistication, elegance and seduction! The award winning Rojo Tango at El Cabaret located at the Faena Hotel or the Esquina Carlos Gardel are two exceptional productions. Note: The World Tango Festival happens each year in August.
Teatro Colón
Teatro Colón, or El Colón -as the locals refer to it. This grand opera house is considered one of the best in the world, known for its perfect acoustics. A technically perfect coliseum, this theatre is among the four most important in the world. Renowned artists such as Enrico Caruso, Plácido Domingo, Luciano Pavarotti, Richard Strauss, María Callas, Daniel Baremboin, Mikhail Barishnikov, Maurice Béjart, and Julio Bocca are among those who have performed here.
Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires
The Museum of Modern Arts of Buenos Aires houses Argentinean contemporary art produced during the 1940s, 50s, and 60s and also renowned international artists such as Matisse, Utrillo, Picasso, Dalí, and Miró.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
This is Argentina’s most significant art museum, housing more than 11,000 works of art, including paintings by El Greco, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Goya. It houses a broad collection of Impressionist artwork by Monety, Degás, Cézanne, Renoir, and Van Gogh and of national artists, including Berni, Spilimbergo, Xul Solar and Kuitka. Every month the museum offers temporary first-class exhibits.
Museo Evita
This museum is located in the building where Eva Peron once worked, and commemorates her life and political actions. Also a lovely place to lunch.
Graffitimundo
Buenos Aires has become one of the world’s most exciting cities for street art. This organisation offers a variety of guided half day and private tours giving insight to the urban art culture. A great option to do at the beginning of your time in Buenos Aires to get an orientation of some of the hip and colourful neighbourhoods in and around Palermo.
Other sightseeing mentions include:
- Galeria Slyzmud art gallery
- MALBA – Latin American Art Museum
- Liprandi Contemporary Art
- Faena Art Center
Football fanatics can soak up the amazing (and often deafening) atmosphere of passionate fans at a match at La Bombonera in La Boca, home of the famous Boca Juniors, or the national side at El Monumental (76,000 capacity).
Rugby is hugely popular in Argentina and more so now, with the Puma’s inclusion in the Investec Rugby Championship and under recent tutelage by former All Blacks coach Sir Graham Henry, has made them a worthy inclusion!
For Polo Campo Argentino del Polo is a unique polo field, holding up to 30,000 people, and just ten minutes from downtown Buenos Aires and home to the Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo, ‘the’ most important polo event in the world.
Pato is a combination of rugby and basketball…on horse back!! Strictly speaking a sport played at weekend fairs where there are Argentinean rodeos, but definitely worth checking out!
Beware…the locals tend to eat late here, traditionally dinner starts from around 10pm and bars/clubs are usually deserted till at least 1 or 2am. This is the land of meat eaters and the Asada (open fire barbecue) is a meat lovers dream.
Fabulous foodie haunts include…
Tegui
This sophisticated and cosmopolitan restaurant in Palermo Hollywood, has been recognized as the city’s best on many occasions and in the top 10 within Latin America. Chef Germán Martitegui prepares the most creative signature dishes in a relaxed and stylish atmosphere. Beyond the hip street art entrance belies a sophisticated interior.
Tarquino
Listed at no. 16 in Latin America’s Top 50 restaurants for 2015, you’ll find Tarquino in Recoleta, where Chef Dante Liporace offers new and innovative twists on local, classic dishes.
Il Matterello
If serious Italian cooking is what you’re craving, then this quaint restaurant in La Boca is another legendary spot to try.
So many superb eatery mentions…too little time to taste!
- Sottovoce for insane Italian – Recoleta
- El Cuartito – Recoleta
- Don Julio – Palermo
- Don Carlos – La Boca
- Casa Felix – Charcarita
- Vasalissa Chocalatier for serious chocolate lovers – stunning stores throughout the city
- ..this is no ordinary ice cream joint! – stores throughout the city
Bars
Isabel
Palermo Soho is home to this very modern design bar with a cool New York vibe and equally hip crowd. Excellent signature drinks and music with a timeless groove from the VIP line-up of DJs.
Frank’s
Behind a discreet and unassuming door in Palermo Hollywood, lies this very cool prohibition-era speakeasy bar, complete with burlesque dancers, and superb barmen serving up delicious cocktails in a plush ambience. You’ll need to know a password to first get past the doorman to then access a small room with a phone booth where you’ll then need to enter a secret code to get in. It’s worth the effort!
Other great bars worth checking out…
- Floreria Atlantico – Recoleta
- Borne – San Telmo
- Persico…this is no ordinary ice-cream joint! Stores throughout the city
Unique Shopping experiences
Galerías Pacífico
This shopping mall has been declared a national historic monument, with it’s architectural and artistic significance. Located on the corner of Florida Street & Cordoba Avenue, you’ll find everything here from Burger King to Chanel!
Patio Bullrich
Moments away from the Recoleta neighbourhood you will find this very chic shopping mall with a refined atmosphere and an exquisite décor…originally the building was used to auction livestock! Anyone needing to get their designer label fix will surely be satisfied, and rewarded here!
Ramírez
One of Argentina’s best designers, Pablo Ramirez offers impeccable tailored garments and is synonymous not only with elegant and timeless style but also with using a predominant black (and some white) colour palette. Visit Pablo’s boutique in the San Telmo barrio.
Camarín
Located in the Galeria Promenade at Av. Alvear, Yanina Solnicki creates beautiful pieces, combining old and new fabrics and recycled vintage to create elegant looks with a strong following for red carpet events and bridal wear. Very much bohemian getaway style.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
One of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, housed in what was once the Grand Splendid Theatre. A bookworm paradise (the stage accommodates a lovely cafe to relax and read).
Feria de Anticuarios de San Telmo
This curious fair in San Telmo takes place every Sunday morning, selling objects from the 1970’s, back to the beginning of the 20th century. There are some real treasures here…literally everything you can imagine at this fair—and things you may never even have imagined.
For music lovers…Rock’N’Freud is a music collectors haven and a great spot for vinyl fans.
Other honorable shopping mentions….(Recoleta seems to be a recurring theme here!)
- Tramando for stylish clothing – Recoleta
- Buenos Aires Design for contemporary home design – Recoleta
- Oleana for fine jewellery – Recoleta
- Perez Sanz for jewellery and accessories – Recoleta
